Thursday, March 31, 2011

Lisbon, Portugal


I have decided that Lisbon, Portugal is the hidden gem of Western Europe. So far, it is my favorite destination. It is the westernmost city in Europe, situated at the mouth of the Rio Tejo, which then flows into the Atlantic Ocean. I loved being so close to the water. Lisbon is a unique city, encompassing the old and the new within its distinct neighborhoods. Proud bronze statues stand tall in beautiful tiled streets, Roman columns and Moorish arches line the cobblestone sidewalks, and the breathtaking 12th century Castelo de São George overlooks from atop the hill. Lisbon is also thriving in the new age, enjoying a booming nightlife in Bairro Alto, colorful fado performers, and bustling plazas.

Lisbon is divided into neighbors and each is very distinct. We stayed in Baixa (pronounced “by-sha” in Portuguese), which is Lisbon’s historic center and a hub for tourists. The main square is called Praça Dom Pedro IV and is lined with shops and restaurants. Rua Augusta (where our hostel was) runs straight through the square and ends at the picturesque Praça do Comercio right on the Rio Tejo. I could see the river right from our window! The Bairro Alto is the neighborhood for Lisbon’s nightlife. Bairro Alto is full of discotecas and a perfect place to hear fado, which is traditional Portuguese mournful singing. The Alfalma is Lisbon’s medieval district, with layers of houses, shops and restaurants and the majestic Castelo de São George.

Lisbon is extremely hilly and all the streets and sidewalks are cobblestones. We mostly got around by walking, but sometimes took the trams. Lisbon’s trams are charming and efficient! They have been in operation since 1901, and even though they’ve been rewired, they still jolt and bump like Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride in Disney World.

We arrived in Lisbon on Thursday evening and it was still light outside—thanks to the hour time difference. Our hostel was easily accessible by bus from the airport and we checked in easily. We stayed in a hostel called the Traveller’s House, which is ranked one of the best hostels in the world! It was very clean, modern, and accommodating. Liz and I later met up with Mai and Amanda to get a traditional Portuguese dinner and walk out towards the water.

The next day, we woke up bright and early and conquered the Alfama. First, we visited a beautiful Cathedral and the National Pantheon, where various Portuguese personalities are buried. There was also a great view of Lisbon from the top. But, my favorite part of the Alfalma was the grand Castelo de São George. More similar to a fort than a castle, Castelo de São George was built some time in the Middle Ages. Throughout the centuries, its ownership has changed from Moors, Portuguese royalty and the explorers. It was partially destroyed in the 1755 Lisbon earthquake and was not renovated until the 1940s. It offers an amazing view of Lisbon and the Rio Tejo.

After a lovely lunch in Baixa, we took Lisbon’s metro to the Oceanarium. Their metro system is very small, but is very modern. It only has four lines and runs through mainly newer parts of the city. At Oceanarium, we rode cable cars across the water and visited the Aquarium. We also headed over to take a look at the longest bridge in Europe called Puente Vasco da Gama, which is 17.2 km long. There’s also the Ponte 25 de Abril that was built by the same company (the American Bridge Company) who constructed the Golden Gate in San Francisco. That night, we sampled some nightlife in Bairro Alto and had lots of fun.

The next morning, after enjoying some complementary eggs from our hostel, a large part of our group set out to Sintra, a town in Portugal about 45 minutes away by train. It seemed to be a nice day when we arrived and we were excited to make our way through the town. Sintra is part of a large mountain range and all of the attractions are high on the mountain. So, we decided to make our way to the Pena Palace and began following signs. We began trekking up the steep path and continued on for what seemed like forever. We were passed by several buses and then realized that we could have taken a bus up the 4-mile road to the palace. It was hot, sticky, and rainy. We were with all of the boys, who of course thought it was great fun to trek through the Portuguese jungle. I remember looking up at the Palace on the mountaintop and wondering if we’d ever make it. Finally, after two long, arduous hours, we made it to the top to see the Pena Palace. We were all sweaty, breathless and exhausted.

However, the trek was completely worth it because the 13th century palace was incredible. According to tradition, this palace was erected after an apparition of the Virgin Mary in the Middle Ages. Over the centuries, the bright colors faded and the palace was grey for a long while. At the end of the 20th century, the palace was painted to match its original bright yellows and periwinkles. I was surprised to see the palace display so much chromatic variety. We were so high up on the mountain that we were literally in the clouds! I remember walking up the stairs of a tower to take a picture of the view and only being able to see fog all around me.

In our last day in Portugal, we took a tram ride to Belem, which is famous as the place where many of the great Portuguese explorers set off on their voyages. There, we visited the Jeronimos Monastery and made a stop in Pastel de Belem. Pastel de Belem is famous for pasteis de Belem, which are egg tarts made with flaky pastry. We sampled the famous Portuguese dessert and they were delicious! It was the perfect ending to a great weekend in Lisbon. 

A tram


Me and Liz with a fountain
Streets of the Alfalma district
View from the Pantheon
At the castle
View from the Castle

The minstrel's cat
Around the castle

Outside the Oceanarium
Sintra
Trekking through Sintra
Pena Palace



Main square in Baixa

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